Today we joined a boat cruise covering three gorges. I didn’t realise, but large rocky sections break up the river into distinct gorges. Cruising slowly up the river our host describes uses of different plants, Jawoyn creation beliefs and geological formations all with a pleasant assuredness. We learn that recently the Jawoyn people have been able to fully buy out their partner owners of all the tourism, so the operation of the park is entirely Aboriginal-owned.

The gorge has an ancient patience for its foreign visitors, resplendent and proud as we wander through. Small fresh water crocodiles sun themselves. On sandy shores small test-holes have been dug for as practice for egg laying later in the season. As we reach the end of each section we walk between boats to continue the trip. At the final change over on our way back we swim for a while. The tranquillity of this place is amazing.

After a short rest we head into Katherine to look at an art gallery. I lack skill in any art (visual, performing, music) which goes some of the way to explaining why I like it so much (the rest is more obvious: Mum). Buying art has always been an aspiration for me, I enjoy art and I like supporting artists. So after much deliberation – and with great pleasure – we purchase a work.

Our last night in Nitmiluk is similar to the first two. There’s a school camp, excited and loud; and a buck’s party, excited and loud. Even so, the place has been amazing!

[Click on a photo to open a full-screen slide show]