Broome — day 1

On our way to Broome today we stopped at Derby. And we drove out to the jetty to look out into the far horizon of sea.

In Broome we set up out tent and walked out to Cable beach. We didn’t know it yet, but the surf life saving club here would become our regular sunset viewing spot. We sat here satisfied for having made the coast, a little relieved from the feeling of being in the desert. And we watched the sun sink under the endless Indian Ocean. It’s my first time seeing that!

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Larrawa Station

There has been some trouble with caravan parks in towns along the highway in the Kimberley – which is a real shame – and given the huge state surplus that WA is running it’s disappointing that these towns aren’t receiving the support that they need! [See notes below]. Nevertheless we’re going to skip both Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing in our drive over to Broome. Tonight we’re staying on a station in between both towns.

It’s probably psychosomatic, but as we get closer to the reaching the coast I’m beginning to feel kind of claustrophobic with all the time we have spent inland. So we’re moving pretty quickly across the Kimberley and the station stay is part of a pretty functional couple of days’ drive, but it turns out unexpectedly beautiful.

The property is called Larrawa station. Once we’ve found a clear space and setup, just over the fence cows begin to gather for a drink. The sun is setting and the last light catches the red dust which the cows are kicking up. The cows become silhouettes in the golden-red haze.

At night the heat falls right out of the air and we eat to the sound of distant animals. Deep in the night I wake up and take a leak. On my way back to the tent the stars and sky draw my eye up over head. What a stunning expanse! It’s a few minutes before I can look away and head back to bed…

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Notes, aka ABC news links: 1, 2, 3

Emma Gorge

No need to drive this morning, the Emma Gorge trail-head is a short walk from our glamping tent. The walk starts along a dirt track, which gradually gets rockier after a kilometre or so. Soon we are walking on river stones or rock-hopping over larger rocks. Compared to yesterday’s more adventurous scrambles, climbs and wades this is welcome-ly tame.

The reward at the end of the trail is a wide open pool with the tallest gorge walls we’ve yet encountered. The splashes of people in the water echo back to us as we approach (as do the squeals of people just entering the cool water!).

A waterfall in the back corner of the gorge sends a steady stream of cold water down into the pool below. Once we get into the pool there is a noticeably warmer side, and on closer inspection water is filtering through the rock and dripping into the pool. This water is much warmer than the river water, so we linger to that side.

It’s hard to describe the almost eerie feeling of the giant cliffs looming over us.

Once we’re too cold to stay in we return to camp.

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While we’re close enough, we are going to visit Wyndham – the northernmost town in the Kimberley. It’s a pretty short drive and we get there in time for lunch at the bakery (pies, obviously). They’re very good, can recommend a visit.

There’s a view from over the port from the Bastion Range (Wyndham is on the convergence of five rivers: the King, Pentecost, Durack, Forest and the Ord). If the looming cliffs this morning weren’t eerie, then this view certainly was! Something about the different colours of water from the rivers blending and the sense of looking out into infinity, or beyond the end of the world was very strange.

El Questro Gorge

We’re at the very start (or end) of the Gibb River Road, and the stories we’ve been hearing about the road conditions are pretty intimidating. Today we’re only going a short way into the El Questro Gorge, but just in case I have emptied Donna out – she’s now light and sprightly – ready for the day!

Before tackling the gorge we have a more relaxing start to the day at Zebedee Springs. It is on the way and closes to the public from lunchtime. As it turns out, we follow a grader some of the way and the road is excellent, so much for worrying.

The bushy walk into Zebedee Springs becomes increasingly tropical as we approach the water source and the pools. Palm trees soar overhead, mottling the light and shading the red rock. They cling to impossible holds along the rock water-course. 

The springs are made up of several smaller pools dotted down a slope, with small waterfalls in between. The water is warm and green moss earthy and spongy underfoot. The lower pools are packed but we climb a short way and find an empty pool with its own waterfall back massager [Anna: I wondered what was wrong with it that people were staying away haha]. In our pool we lie back, looking up at the patterns that palms make in the sky, with the warm water following past us. It is hard to leave for a more active walk, but seeing more people arriving we make way for them to enjoy.

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As we drive further to the gorge we know there is a final river crossing that Donna can’t do. When we reach the crossing, it is very apparent why – the river is about 30 metres long and fairly deep. We parked and waited a while to see if someone would arrive who could give us a lift. A couple of cars arrived, one without a snorkel parked, and one with a snorkel stopped to assess the crossing. As we were waiting, a car very confidently drove right into the water, dropping into a large hole which ran water over the bonnet, it slowed a little but pushed on [Anna: Legends only]. The waiting car grew intimidated. Those of us on foot decided we would just walk across instead of waiting for a lift, we encouraged the other car and cheered at they took a smarter line through the water and easily made the crossing.

We chose to walk around the river and through the muddy edges, while our fellow walkers/waders set off directly through the water. We have been told, “We don’t see crocs here, but we have to say there is always a chance”. So we don’t mess around, but the mud is slow going. On the other side we meet back up with our wet friends, each considering whether they’d taken the worse option. My shoes are soaked, but there’s deeper water in the gorge anyway… [Anna: turns out my shoes are relatively waterproof, yay].

Our river crossing friend has come back to offer a lift to his cheer squad, which cuts out about a kilometre of sand. Thank you to that man.

Now we head into the gorge. The walk follows the floor of the gorge, alongside the river. Sometimes the gorge is wide and the river narrow, giving room for tropical bush to fill the space. In places the walls tower over us, even leaning inward, cutting out space and light for the bush to grow. When the river widens it becomes still and reflections of the trees bounce off the surface of the water; at the same time, the water is so clear that it magnifies the rocks below the surface, creating a kind of dual vision from the water.

About halfway through the walk the gorge narrows so much that the river entirely fills it. A chest-deep pool creates the first significant obstacle, including a set of boulders that we need to shimmy up to get out of the pool. We take off our packs, organise our things, and take off our shoes and tie them to our packs. Before continuing on, we take a dip to cool off a little. The water is brisk but pleasant.

Back to our packs and the walk, the river rocks on my bare feet are surprisingly sharp with the extra pack weight. I feel pretty uncoordinated while wading through the pool and up to the gap between the boulders! Slippery rock make the climb a bit awkward but we manage. So onward…

This next part of the walk has a lot more obstacles: narrow spaces to fit through, more boulders to find a way up/over and more water. Climbing up some narrow ledges alongside a waterfall is the most adventurous part of the walk, not crazy sketchy, but worth going slowly.

Then it’s not far from the end of the walk, the MacMicking Pool. It’s a long clear/green pool with a waterfall flowing into it from the far end. Here the walls of the gorge are closed quite tightly together, with one leaning over. We arrive at midday and the sun streams in lighting up the water. We share the water with some other walkers [Anna: including some buff guys in budgy smugglers trying to demonstrate their athletic prowess by trying to scale the rock face, unsuccessfully] and chat as we dry off.

The walk home is fun, knowing what to expect and encouraging others on their way up. The only difference is we can jump off the boulders into the halfway pool instead of clambering down them. I jump first and ferry our bags while Anna jumps afterwards. More tired and holding my pack overhead I stumble on a bigger rock that I couldn’t see. In goes my bag, including my camera – the 7D that Anna and I bought together nearly 10 years ago. It has travelled everywhere with us (Iceland, Denmark, the UK, Germany, Japan, Canada, all over the USA, a lot of Australia…) [Anna: RIP camera, you had such a good run].

Back home we have a well earned meal (and drinks!) at the restaurant. But all the Kimberley sun cannot save the camera [Anna: Later in the trip we will buy a wet pack and wading shoes. Turns out these things are extremely useful].

Mirima

Lake Argyle farewells us with an amazing sunrise. We have half a day to kill before heading to El Questro. We pack and head back into Kununurra, where we park and walk into Mirima National Park.

The park is on the outskirts of town but feels a million miles away. The experience of walking into a valley and feeling the walls enveloping around will never get old. The red walls make the white boab trees light up.

From higher up, thousands of intricate layers of rock meet wisps of cloud in the bright blue sky.

Very happy for a second go at the chicken shop after a hot walk!

Then we drive into Emma Gorge. Donna can’t handle the road into El Questro camp, but Emma Gorge is fine, which (unfortunately!) requires us to glamp. It’s a happy little break from camping. We’ll check out the El Questro Gorge tomorrow, for now it’s cocktails!

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