After another noisy (but fun) night we pack early to take a place in a queue for a camp site at Edith Falls. When we arrive at 07:30 we’re number 6 in the communally kept order. And we take part in numbering other groups as they arrive. Sites are limited here, and popular, Number 1 today arrived at 06:30! We easily get a place (unpowered sites are a lot earlier to fit in). We cook breakfast in a park while we wait for check-in time.

The popularity began to make sense with the rules given to those waiting in the queue (no generators, no idling engines, no parties [how old do I sound writing that I like this!?]). The camp ground is like an oasis: the sites are shady, the breeze is cool, there are sprinklers keeping the grass green and soft. What a change from last night!

It turns out (having not looked earlier) that the cool breeze is coming off a swimming hole 5 minutes walk from our camp. We swim, dry, do some crosswords and go to bed.

[Click on a photo to open a full-screen slide show]

Early the next morning we set off for an adventure. The peaceful night makes starting early a breeze. We walk to the furthest swimming hole first, called Sweetwater. We arrive before anyone else, and no one has camped overnight at the nearby sites. It’s calm and serene, but with no one else there it feels funny to get in the water. And not to be too mean to Sweetwater but Long Pool, which we passed on our way, looked very pretty. So back we go!

At Long Pool we swim under a little waterfall, laze on the rocks and take gratuitous photos.

We take a loop walk back to stop off at the more easily accessible Upper Pool. This is definitely the best swimming hole so far! There’s a large waterfall to play in, clear, deep water and plenty of rocks to lie on.

We’re back in time for lunch (a Barra Burger and Buffalo Burger) and we enjoy another restful night

[Click on a photo to open a full-screen slide show]

Today we joined a boat cruise covering three gorges. I didn’t realise, but large rocky sections break up the river into distinct gorges. Cruising slowly up the river our host describes uses of different plants, Jawoyn creation beliefs and geological formations all with a pleasant assuredness. We learn that recently the Jawoyn people have been able to fully buy out their partner owners of all the tourism, so the operation of the park is entirely Aboriginal-owned.

The gorge has an ancient patience for its foreign visitors, resplendent and proud as we wander through. Small fresh water crocodiles sun themselves. On sandy shores small test-holes have been dug for as practice for egg laying later in the season. As we reach the end of each section we walk between boats to continue the trip. At the final change over on our way back we swim for a while. The tranquillity of this place is amazing.

After a short rest we head into Katherine to look at an art gallery. I lack skill in any art (visual, performing, music) which goes some of the way to explaining why I like it so much (the rest is more obvious: Mum). Buying art has always been an aspiration for me, I enjoy art and I like supporting artists. So after much deliberation – and with great pleasure – we purchase a work.

Our last night in Nitmiluk is similar to the first two. There’s a school camp, excited and loud; and a buck’s party, excited and loud. Even so, the place has been amazing!

[Click on a photo to open a full-screen slide show]

First full day in Nitmiluk: our helpful visitor centre guide has given us full directions on how to cover the best parts of the part in a day, and it’s going to be a hot one, so we set off before sunrise.

A couple of kilometres up a steep fire trail and we can just see the sun beginning to rise over rolling hills. As we wind through fairly level ground the light starts to catch fine details: the fuzz on long grass or the peak of a rocky outcrop. We walk towards the sun to the first lookout (Pats), everything in front is in silhouette. I’m not sure what I was expecting, and this sound stupid but I’m so used to dry river and creeks that the NT keeps surprising me when there’s actually water!

So it’s a wonderful shock when we round the a bend, step out onto a rock flat platform above a shear drop and the view opens up. We look down over a wide river far below, deep blue water (the sun not being high in the sky, the water doesn’t sparkle yet), snaking through a gorge until out of sight at a bend. Yellow cliffs opposite aid the sense of our own height above the water.

We walk for some kilometres weaving close to the gorge edge and then back through bush land. Each time we can see into the gorge the sunlight has changed the view. The water starts to sparkle, the rock walls change colour, light dances on the cliff from the river, canoes move in and out of view. Now we head down into a branch of the gorge.

Smooth river rocks are our path, steeply descending. Open, scrubby bush becomes more lush in the shelter of the close walls. The path loses its steepness and we cross some stagnant water holes, a disconnected river. Suddenly we round a small bend and find ourselves at the end of the trail.

We stand at water level, in the sunlight, looking along the river into Katherine Gorge. Quite stunning! We can hear distant canoe conversations (a school camp group) and the water looks inviting. But instead of swimming we take a break and have some food, really wanting someone else to jump in the water before us – obviously they’ll be taken by a croc if there is one!

Our wish is granted after lunch when a family arrives and jumps right in. That’s our cue, and in we go.

The rest of the walk is a fairly practical 8km, with a stop at a lookout right towards the end. I’m hot and sweaty when we arrive, so I stop to cool off and take in the view. As I look out into the gorge I get a sudden rush of peace and serenity. I find it quite emotional looking out into this majestic place. We’ll come back later for sunset, and to see the bats take off for their night hunting (as advised by our helpful visor centre guide).

When we return to that lookout (the fast way, up the stairs), we set-up with cheese and beers to wait for the sunset. The sun again changes the nature of the gorge. The water goes bright and reflects the sky and in the next moment it turns to ink. As the light really fades the bats begin to screech and swarm from their roosts, they dip into the water to cool and then stream down the river. Looking against the last light, not only are there bats close to us, but there are thousands and thousands of bats appearing as tiny specks far off into the distance. 

[Click on a photo to open a full-screen slide show]

At the camp in Mataranka all the sites are well spread-out. We finally have a quiet place that almost seems we’re alone. At night, though, come the most strange noises from the bush. It’s hard to know if it’s pigs, or cows or something else? Very creepy, like an animal crying out, certainly cuts through the peace of the night!

In the morning we visit Bitter Springs, not technically springs, but a river that flows underground for a short period and heats up from the earth. It’s clear and and clear and warm, very pleasant to swim or float, and utterly spectacular! It is a paradise.

In Mataranka town we mosey through some markets before heading to the other hot springs, through a commercial camp ground. We found this one less peaceful, it is more constructed and it’s packed (we were there in the afternoon).

The next morning we visit Bitter Springs again and it’s magical all over again. A short drive then up to Katherine (and the busiest Woolies in Australia, unpleasant) and then up to the Nitmiluk camp ground. We set-up camp in the heat and cool off in the pool as a reward.

There’s a couple of school groups here, and a bucks party, but the vibe in the camp is really fun and everyone’s courteous. Tomorrow we’ll get up early for a big hike.

[Click on a photo to open a full-screen slide show]

Leaving Longreach we’re a little nervous about what the border is going to be like. We allowed plenty of time for queues or hard questions. And Anna has been quizzing me so I know all the right answers for the police, haha.

While there is a line at the border we end up with a really relaxed officer and the whole thing was smooth. Crossing into the NT Anna and I looked at each other with giant smiles. We made it!

The drive from Mr Isa to Tennant Creek was pretty long, through flat and featureless country. And it was windy enough to gust the car out of the lane. That might sound like I didn’t enjoy it, but listening to the audiobook with Anna made me feel so happy. Not just the book itself, but the nostalgic connection to my childhood family road trips with The Hound of the Baskervilles playing, or taking turns reading Harry Potter.

Tennant Creek is fine, for us it’s just a practical stop where we don’t need to set-up camp before heading down to the Devils Marbles. The motel is comfortable and the attendant helpful. It’s the first time I’ve had to show ID for beers in years!

Before we can drive to the Devils Marbles we have to stop in at an alien-themed roadhouse. There’s a phenomenon called Min Min, lights at night appearing and moving/morphing, which is attributed to aliens. So we had an ice cream there while reading all the newspaper stories about UFO sightings.

Karlu Karlu has echoes of Uluru, watching shadows stretch long over the ground and witness red boulders begin to glow and then burn in the late afternoon sun. Wow. In the morning we get up before sunrise to walk and watch again as the light transforms the rock. Then back to camp to pack up and head north.

It’s another long drive to from Devils Marbles to Mataranka, and Elsey National Park. On the way we stop at Daly Waters Pub, which was a real mood. When we arrive in Mataranka, we set-up camp at the Jalmurak camp ground.

[Click on a photo to open a full-screen slide show]