Broome — day 4

In the spirit of leaning into Broome-time we take a long time to start the day, mostly taken up with a long slow morning pool-side at the caravan park. There’s a couple doing yoga together and a man doing push-ups. We just find a deck chair and quietly read in the cool morning air. Then we begin to cycle between swimming and drying…very hard work this!

There’s a fancy restaurant just down the road where we head for lunch, the Sydney Cove Oyster Bar. I’m confused about why it seems busy, when people start saying, “Father’s Day!” as they sit down at tables around us. Oh right, I guess I should call dad!

It’s great being on the coast, the fresh ocean air feels like home. And eating this seafood reinforces that feeling more than ever. 

Controversially we head to a coastal bar instead of the SLSC for sunset today. The different view and a cocktail are good, but it kind of reinforces the surf club’s supremacy. A sunset over water and palm trees is pretty spectacular though!

Broome — day 3

Matso’s ginger beer has been a staple of bottle shops and pubs for a while now, but I haven’t had any yet. The brewery is in town and we go for lunch and a lazy beer tasting afternoon. Broome has really been the transition to ‘holiday mode’ that we’ve been needing. We’ve had such an amazing trip already, it’s just been very constant, here I’m starting to relax and enjoy some empty-mind time!

Then in the late afternoon, as usual, we’re back to Cable Beach for sunset. Today there are long streaking clouds overhead and we walk along the beach as they stretch out above us. We sit and watch as the clouds bask in the last light. 

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Broome — day 2

Spent the morning at Gantheaume point. Last night while we watched the sunset at Cable beach, the water was just a medium to reflect the sun. But now in the daylight the water is completely transformed. It is the main attraction. Vivid intense blue meets the iron-red rocks, sometimes crashing into each other, or from some angles they merge and align in patterns. 

We explore along the coast, ducking in and out of rocky formations, or up over the water in places. The further we walk the more we leave the sounds of other tourists behind.

After a swim at the caravan park we head back to cable beach lifesaving club for beers and another sunset. 

After sunset we go to see a movie at the ancient cinema: Sun Pictures. 

Star light shines on us in the open air theatre and the sound of aeroplanes or a neighbour on the phone punctuate the film. In some contexts that could be distracting, but our whole trip has been filled with connection to people, it’s impossible to shy away from them in campgrounds, or on walking trails, or now in an open cinema. The story telling and camaraderie with strangers throughout our trip has been part of the fabric of it. So the interruptions are familiar and fun. 

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Broome — day 1

On our way to Broome today we stopped at Derby. And we drove out to the jetty to look out into the far horizon of sea.

In Broome we set up out tent and walked out to Cable beach. We didn’t know it yet, but the surf life saving club here would become our regular sunset viewing spot. We sat here satisfied for having made the coast, a little relieved from the feeling of being in the desert. And we watched the sun sink under the endless Indian Ocean. It’s my first time seeing that!

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Larrawa Station

There has been some trouble with caravan parks in towns along the highway in the Kimberley – which is a real shame – and given the huge state surplus that WA is running it’s disappointing that these towns aren’t receiving the support that they need! [See notes below]. Nevertheless we’re going to skip both Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing in our drive over to Broome. Tonight we’re staying on a station in between both towns.

It’s probably psychosomatic, but as we get closer to the reaching the coast I’m beginning to feel kind of claustrophobic with all the time we have spent inland. So we’re moving pretty quickly across the Kimberley and the station stay is part of a pretty functional couple of days’ drive, but it turns out unexpectedly beautiful.

The property is called Larrawa station. Once we’ve found a clear space and setup, just over the fence cows begin to gather for a drink. The sun is setting and the last light catches the red dust which the cows are kicking up. The cows become silhouettes in the golden-red haze.

At night the heat falls right out of the air and we eat to the sound of distant animals. Deep in the night I wake up and take a leak. On my way back to the tent the stars and sky draw my eye up over head. What a stunning expanse! It’s a few minutes before I can look away and head back to bed…

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Notes, aka ABC news links: 1, 2, 3