Heading back towards Reykjavik (East) for about 40 minutes we arrive at Skógafoss: a big old waterfall just off the road.

A long set of stairs takes us to the top, where the first photo was taken. It seems like most people stop there, but there is a stile which goes further along the river.

We (awkwardly) clamber over the fence and head along the track. We’ve been told that the track is around 24km long, so we plan to walk as long as we feel like and then head back.

It is sunny today. Hot even, relatively.

The side of the river that we are on is fairly nondescript, mostly flat rolling hills and a slightly muddy track. The other side is more mountainous and formidable. When there is a dip in the ground across the river we can see the snowy tops of far away mountains. Looking back the way we came we stare straight into the bright sun, making silhouettes of anyone behind. Right now it’s just the four of us, so the silhouettes are recognisable.

The clear day gives a crispness and a clarity to the country that we haven had so far. This walk is supposed to include something like 11 waterfalls in the section we plan to walk, so we keep our ears and eyes trained on spotting the next.

Typically you might expect to hear a waterfall before you see it, but one in particular blows huge amount of water spray up into the air that it looks like a steaming hot spring from half a kilometre away.

The river has long cut itself a deep ravine to flow through, it’s odd to think on why or how the waterfalls remain – why aren’t they all cut down to river bed? I suppose the force of the falling water cuts a hole ahead of the running water cutting a channel so forever there are waterfalls where they formed at the start. The ravine occasionally keeps the river silent from us, only to reveal it again just around a corner in a great roaring surge of noise.

The track starts getting hilly as we climb down, over and then up again into small tributary streams. Slippery but fun.

Further along we begin to clamber over the track more than walk. In places on hand and feet climbing up and climbing back down.

After a little bit of this we rest and decide to head back and have some lunch.

We eat in the shadow of the first waterfall. The damp air and a now cloudy sky bring on chills so getting back into the car to warm up is welcome.

We head back to the basalt caves from yesterday to get a better look in finer weather.