After breakfast we plan to walk down to the ocean and around to the harbour, but the sun is just starting to light up Hallgrimskirkja, so we walk up there first.

From there we walk down to the water, the wind is much colder and the view of icy mountains across the water seems to lower the the temperature further.

We watch boats head out through the choppy water from the eastern harbour opening and walk all the way around the harbour to the west side. There’s a grassy mound built as an art installation (called Þúfa) which we climb up and look out over the view, one way over the water and the other to the city.

Just a little way back is Grandi Mathöll, a food hall. We take lunch there: lamb chops, salmon and prawn platter and bubbles.

We walk back along Skólavörðustígur watching Hallgrimskirkja grow larger. At the Red Cross I buy a red coat to keep the wind out and we’re home as the last light fades

There’s a public pool nearby (Sundhöllin) so after a short break we take a walk to join the after-work crowd there. Seeing as we plan more pool visits we buy a 10x card and see our way to the outdoor heated pools. Steamy and relaxing, who would expect a swimming holiday in winter in Iceland?